2003 Dom Perignon P2

A wonderful and unique wine from an equally unique vintage filled with oxidation-preventing phenols. I have always been a faithful defender of this wine. It will forever be unique and different with a higher density and concentration than any other Dom Perignon since the twin soul in 1976 saw the light of day. Long less enjoyable than 2004 and 2002, but with enormous development potential and a slow age curve. It’s so fascinating to try this youthful P2 version side by side with the normally disgorged variant. Both are brilliant, but where P1, if I may call it that, is creamy chocolate saturated and exotic, P2 is intricate, nervous and thoughtful. Every minute a new sequence of aromas that dominates appears. In some sips the gray toasted and classic notes dominate, next time iodine and oyster shell take over to let the richly candied fruit of peach, mango and apricot jam takeover in a third wave. What makes me recognize the vintage are the notes of liquorice, black truffle, ash, tar, salt and asphalt.

The structure is monumental and muscular with a wonderful interplay between dynamics, rhythm and intensity. In the taste, the same dark notes emerge as in the aroma, but the fruit is in this P2 stage more floral and spicy with a hint of lemongrass and mint where the normally disgorged version breathes more nougat, mint chocolate and orange. I am convinced that I will give the 2003 Dom Perignon P3 of the future at least 97 points as I am completely convinced of the greatness and ageability of this Journalist bullied wine. In the same reasonableness, Vincent and Richard should already have won over the doubters to the devotees happy crowd of followers with this P2.

This is a very thick, dense Dom Pérignon with layers of ripe fruit. Dried apple, pineapple and pie crust with some nougat undertones. Dense and layered with chewy tannins and a juicy finish. Umami undertone. This has the highest percentage of Pinot Noir ever. 15 years on the lees in bottle. 62% Pinot Noir and 38% Chardonnay. Drink or hold.

This vintage is the one Richard Geoffroy is the proudest of as it was such a challenging and unprecedentedly hot year. There is nothing heavy in Dom Pérignon of the year. The not is stunningly toasty with sweet, vanilla laden fruit, hay, cookie dough and cream. On the palate it is exuberant, round and textured with a touch of firming phenolics on the back palate. Finely bubbling energetic palate finishing on a pure mineral freshness.