An expressive nose features bright extract of red pinot fruit aromas and a hint of forest floor that are followed by big, round and mouth coating medium full flavors that possess impressive freshness and beguiling finishing sweetness. This is a lovely combination of moderate power with obvious finesse plus a subtle touch of backend minerality. A very fine '04 that should benefit from medium-term cellaring.

Medium red, still a bit hazy at the tail end of the secondary fermentation. Fruit-driven aromas of cherry and raspberry. Fatter, sweeter and larger than the Cailleret, with very good mouth coverage, but a bit less racy. The ripe acids are more apparent on the back half. This has the stuffing to support its moderate tannins. Villette says he normally presents the Cailleret after the Champans but not this year. (The Taillepieds was barely halfway through its malo and awkward to taste, but already showed a silky texture and considerable sweetness.)

A very ripe nose, soft and muffled at the moment with a meaty element developing in the glass. The palate is better than the nose, quite mellow, supple with wild strawberry and redcurrants. Smooth texture although there is a metallic note towards the finish. Lacks weight overall. Not one of d'Angerville's best Volnays. (Tasted twice)

Pale rusty ruby. Light nose with no sign of ladybirds. Some sweetness and a little severe on the finish – uh oh. Definitely firm but with a lovely fan of richly mature flavours on the finish. This really comes into its own on the finish. (JR)