2017 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino

As you drive downhill from the hamlet of Montalcino on its north side, you pass the Canalicchio di Sopra winery, which is located in a shallow, sun-lit basin of vines. This estate is meticulous and studied in its winemaking philosophy, and the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is an expression of that concentration. This warm-climate Brunello reveals awesome purity and intensity with wild cherry, almond and lilac spread over a tonic, mid-weight finish. This wine awards plenty of elegance in a vintage that was not easy and not prone to such nuance. ML

This red bursts with sweet, ripe cherry and plum fruit, with tobacco, leather and mineral elements adding depth as it builds to a lingering conclusion. Shows fine balance, a vibrant structure and excellent length. Spicy aftertaste. Best from 2024 through 2042. 3,100 cases made, 1,000 cases imported. — BS

This shows beautiful balance and drinkability, with firm and slightly chewy tannins, yet the fruit is pure and flavorful. Some bark and crushed-stone undertones. Very drinkable now, but better in 2023.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is wildly perfumed, dusty and exotic, with balsam herbs, savory spices, red currants and plums coming across as so pretty yet rich and potent. A silky display of sour wild berries contrasted by candied citrus wows the senses as the 2017 plays a zesty sweet-and-sour act upon the palate. It’s long, youthfully chewy, yet still remarkably fresh, with rosy florals and tart, tart cherries giving way to chiseled tannins through the finale. This is a beautiful rendition of the 2017 vintage, one that takes the dry warmth of the year and expresses it with tremendous energy and verve. What's more, I revisited this bottle over the course of 36 hours and it only got better with time. EG

Aromas of underbrush, blue flowers and ripe black-skinned fruit mingle with new leather. The concentrated, full-bodied palate doles out ripe plum, fleshy black cherry, star anise and tobacco set against velvety, enveloping tannins. A great performance for the scorching vintage, you won't have to wait long before enjoying this, but it will also offer years of fine drinking. Drink 2023–2029. Kerin O'Keefe