Noël Pinguet produced three Vouvrays Le Mont in 1989, the regular one (which is already spectacular), the 1ère Trie Fin de pressée, and this 1989 Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie Début de pressée that is made from free running must. This brilliant and luminously orange-golden colored Chenin opens with a perfectly clear, intense and concentrated bouquet of ripe stone and refreshing lemon fruits; it is absolutely brilliant and precise in its aromatics. Highly elegant and piquant on the delicate and silky textured palate, this exceptionally sweet (190 gram residual sugar) but tension-filled and firmly structured wine is full of energy and discreet power, but remains straight and vertical in its crystalline nature. There is great finesse and intensity here. Beguiled and carried by a perfect acidity to a long and thrilling finish, this 10.1% alcohol beauty drinks perfectly today but can beautifully age for decades. If you can find and afford it, you should buy it. But don't buy just the Début, because the corresponding Fin de pressée (with more flesh and concentration and even more sugar) is worth to be compared side by side.
Stephan Reinhardt (eRobertParker.com, Nov 2015)
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