2012 Clos Fourtet

Having just had the 2003 and 2005 from my cellar, I can attest to the magnificent turnaround in quality this famous estate on the eastern side of St.-Emilion has achieved. All of it is attributable to its dynamic proprietor, Philippe Cuvelier. The 2012 Clos Fourtet (usually 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc) has beautiful blackberry and blueberry fruit and an inky purple color. With flawless integration of acidity, tannin, wood and alcohol, a full-bodied mouthfeel and stunning richness, this is impressive and certainly one of the vintage's top wines. It should evolve beautifully for 15-20 years, and be drinkable in 3-4. Yields were a modest 32 hectoliters per hectare with the alcohol at 14%.xt decade they become incorporated into Clos Fourtet. Another great success for Cuvelier and his estate manager, Tony Ballu. Drink: 2013 - 2028

The Clos Fourtet has a far more restrained bouquet than exhibited in recent vintages, with well defined black cherries, fresh strawberry and a touch of cracked black pepper. The oak is very well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh blackberry and fresh raspberry fruit. It is missing a little depth on the mid-palate, but I appreciate the linearity and focus on the finish. Very fine. Tasted April 2013.

Juicy and open, with a bright mix of strawberry, pomegranate and cherry fruit laced with a pleasantly firm structure. Shows more flesh and dark fruit with aeration, releasing a pleasant graphite note and hinting at buried perfume. Should be solid with some aging. —J.M.

A silky and shy red with blueberry and bramble berry character. Full body, fine tannins and a fresh finish. It grows on the palate. Lovely tannin texture. Better in 2016.

The 2012 Clos Fourtet is deep, fleshy and quite seductive. Sweet red cherry, plum, dried flowers, sage and rosemary flesh out in a pretty, gracious Clos Fourtet that offers lovely balance to match its mid-weight, restrained personality. This is a lovely showing, and a wine that should drink well with minimal cellaring. The 2012 preserves lovely freshness, but it should also drink well with minimal cellaring. There is plenty to admire, that much is sure. The 2012 is 86% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Cabernet Franc that spent 18 months in French oak, 60% new.