The seventeenth vintage of Cheval des Andes, a wine that has undergone a model transformation. I recently tried the 2007, and it’s fascinating to trace the different stages of its evolution, all of which say something about the contemporary history of Argentine wine. To sum up, it started out with a French love of concentration and ripeness and ended up with an equally French love of equilibrium and local terroir. The 2017 is a new beginning in itself. A blend of Malbec with 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, it presents a bold nose of fresh fruit such as sweet and sour cherry with fleshy aromas and a touch of white pepper over a bold, woody backdrop. A fluid wine, slightly taut on the palate with medium structure, a delicate feel and active tannins well integrated into the terse texture, overall it is nuanced and full of flavor. Possesses a balance that respects the concentration of the vintage without ever letting it get out of hand. An Argentine wine made with more than a nod to French expertise.

From vineyards in Las Compuertas and Paraje Altamira. 62% Malbec, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine, made from the produce of two rather different vineyards, one planted in 1929, has been taken in hand by the Cheval Blanc technical team and this is the vintage that really shows this to great effect. The new team has decided to omit Cabernet Franc. Less impenetrable crimson than most. Very distinctive nose. Much more nuanced than most. Very meaty and arrives in a subtle cloud rather than borne on a spear. Savoury and rich but with great sophistication. Long and layered. Beautiful texture. (JR)