The 2017 Loosen Barry Wolta Wolta Dry Riesling, of the trio of 2017, 2018 and 2019 on the table, is the slowest to evolve, the most reluctant. Perhaps that bodes well for its long future; who can say at this point. It feels to have hardly moved since I saw it last. The wine is concentrated and streamlined, and the wood is still sitting above the fruit; however, through the finish, it is showing a svelte character that really is shooting it in the direction I want it so very badly to go. Textural, long and classy, I would recommend keeping your mitts off this for a few more years. It's ready, sure, but it will only get better.

A collaboration with Germany's Ernie Loosen, the 2017 Loosen Barry Wolta Wolta Dry Riesling was spontaneously fermented in old wood, then aged in the fuder for 11 months on the lees before being transferred to stainless steel for another year on the lees. It's a bit woolly and funky on the nose, but it still boasts lovely peach and citrus fruit at its core. Medium-bodied, it offers a unique take on Australian Riesling, one with uncommon textural richness, complexity and length.

Light, bright yellow. Highly expressive citrus, orchard and pit fruit scents are complemented by subtle floral, honey and mineral nuances. Silky and round on the palate, offering pliant peach, tangerine and pear flavors that deepen slowly with air. Shows very good power and clarity on the floral-driven finish, which lingers with strong persistence.

Screwcapped. Erni Loosen and Peter Barry have been friends for 30 years. At a Riesling Downunder event in 2015 they decided to undertake a joint venture, not just Walhall German Riesling but this South Australian one, for which Erni shipped out a 2,800-litre Fuder which the Barrys called Fritz. This was fermented with ambient yeast and aged for two years on gross lees. Wolta Wolta refers to the part of Clare were the grapes were grown and it means 'good water'. Very pale greenish straw (Clare wines seem paler than German ones). Very pretty nose and beautifully balanced. I think the Wolta Wolta may be my favourite of these Loosen collaborations. Great steely Riesling character perfectly balanced by fresh acidity. It probably won't last nearly as long as the German trio but is the most fun to drink now. (JR)