The 1998 Shiraz Reserve has the most potential of this trio. It combines some of the mature elements of the 1997 with the massive richness of the 1996, but without the 1996's slightly rustic framework. A dense purple color is followed by a sensational bouquet of creme de cassis, charcoal, and incense. Full-bodied, opulent, and voluptuously-textured, this is a big, but incredibly well-balanced wine. Its fruit bomb-like personality of a decade ago has morphed into something far more civilized, delineated, and refined. This gorgeous offering is a superb example of McLaren Vale Shiraz. Enjoy it over the next 10-15+ years. All of these wines were made by one of the wine bloggers’ favorite whipping boys, Sarah and Sparky Marquis, who have since moved on to their own projects. I rated these Australian reds highly when they were first released, and lo and behold, they are still spectacular wines that are aging beautifully. They admirably demonstrate that the Marquis team knows a great deal about what they are doing.

Saturated ruby. Sappy crushed blackberry aroma lifted by floral and minty components. Urgent dark berry and bitter chocolate flavors offer great sappy freshness and verve. There's nothing raisiny about this nearly painfully delineated shiraz. Extraordinarily penetrating, firmly tannic finish. Aged in American oak but oak was the last thing I noticed. Extraordinary juice.

Black crimson. Rich, warm, spicy, incontrovertibly Australian but with very severe tannins on the finish. So unlike the California or current French style of trying to curry favour with the drinker! Hard work! (JR)