Explosively aromatic and extraordinarily long, this well-balanced wine doesn't show its muscle as much as does its structure to propel the gorgeous flavors. Cherries, berries, earth and mineral notes mingle enticingly, wrapped in a gentle buzz of tannins. A stylish wine that should age well. Drink now through 2012.

Medium to deep brick in color, the 1997 Hill of Grace is a little closed on the nose with notes of leather and Indian spices giving way to hints of dried mulberries, burnt toast, charcoal and sauteed herbs. Medium to full-bodied, it has good acid balance and concentration and a medium level of chewy tannins through the long finish. Drink it now to 2020+. Importer: Negociants USA, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

Hot February and some 'stress ripening'. Mid greyish ruby. Lighter more fragile year than some. Rather metallic on the end. Very chewy. Awkward. A bit hot and coarse on the end. (JR)