Powerful but unobtrusive tannins – like an engine purring – support dark, perfectly ripe blackberry, mulberry and plum fruit, with hints of strawberry, red fruit leather and smoked charcuterie notes from the oak. Spice and dried herb nuances unfurl over three days, beautifully articulating the terroir and its 104-year-old vines through notes of black pepper, sage, tea tree, star anise, mint and cardamom. Ripe and refreshing redcurrant sustains the sweet, spiced fruit through the long, sinuous finish. Terrific purity, poise and panache. Released at £137.

The 2016 Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz is steeped in complexity, with aromas ranging from camphor, bay leaf and sage to smoke and grilled beef and from blueberries and blackberries to plums laced with spice. Full-bodied, rich and intense, it's ripe and velvety textured, with a long, licorice-tinged finish and dusty tannins that bode well for the cellar. From vines planted in 1912, I suspect this will come close to the quality of the Hill of Grace at a fraction of the price. Tasted again the following day from the open bottle, this was even better, seamless, flowing and harmonious in the mouth.

'2016 epitomises the single vineyard story', according to Stephen Henschke. 1952 was the first vintage of this wine from Shiraz vines planted in 1912 on an east -facing slope which the Henschkes believe results in a particularly elegant wine. Aged for 18 months in 80% French and 20% American hogsheads. 19% of the oak was new. Remarkably bright purplish crimson, the sort of colour I'd expect from a Cabernet more than from a Shiraz. Hugely medicinal on the nose of this – positively a poultice! Such intensity and so much history in this beautifully balanced wine. You just know you're tasting vine-growing rather than winemaking here (sorry, Stephen). Everything seems so healthy and in balance. No sweetness but rather herby savour and appetising layers of fully ripe fruit. Not at all like Barossa Valley floor Shiraz – much more lifted and cooler. There's a certain tarriness here too. Definitely to be drunk with food and its considerable tannins have just crept up on my while I marvelled at the fruit. Ideally to be kept. Tasted 24 hours later, a certain (black) pepperiness was evident on the nose and there was more obvious ripeness beating the tannins into submission. Very clean, appetising finish. (JR)