Hung deli meat, star anise and blackberry adorn the nose of the 2017 Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz. Discerning this is akin to peering over the counter at an Italian deli, with meat, cheeses and garlic hanging from the ceiling: it's enveloping and welcome. On the palate, the wine is bright and concentrated, with layers of salted blueberry, licorice and staunch (yet fine) tannins. It has flexibility and pliability, but it also has shape and form—all of it encased in a medium-bodied shell. It is savory and lean above all else, with bacon fat adorning all edges.

100% 105-year-old single-vineyard Shiraz. Matured in 26% new and 74% seasoned (86% French, 14% American) oak hogsheads for 18 months prior to blending and bottling. Dark and tarry on the nose, deep black fruit beneath. Heroic proportions. After eight hours, this is only just opening up, giving charred beef and leather as well as compressed herby notes. While it's a hedonistic pleasure to drink now, this will peak only after many years. (RH)