Since 2012, Eclipse has been produced exclusively from estate-grown McLaren Vale fruit. The 2014 Eclipse is a blend of 85% Grenache, 8% Shiraz and 7% Graciano, aged almost entirely in used oak. Aromas of spiced strawberries and raspberries are inviting and complex, hinting at white pepper, cardamom and allspice. It's full-bodied yet seems almost weightless, buoyed by high-toned fruit and bright acids, while fine-grained, silky-textured tannins give shape and focus to the palate and add a savory edge on the long finish.

First made by Drew Noon’s father in 1976 (and called 'Burgundy'), this old vine Grenache-dominated red has evolved into an unusual, highly expressive blend of 100% estate-grown, dry-farmed Grenache, Shiraz and Graciano, with membrillo spice, orange peel and garrigue nuances to its expansive sweet plum and blackberry fruit. Having completed ageing in a 4,500 litre oak vat, it displays impressive freshness and persistence for a wine of such swagger and girth.

Grenache, Shiraz, Graciano. Pretty heavy bottle. Looks quite evolved. Big, rose-petal aromas. Then massive sweetness and alcohol on the palate. Most unusual nowadays! But I suppose if you can sell every bottle three times over, there is little need to change. There's a certain gentleness – until the next morning. (JR)