Deep garnet colored, 1996 Grange is scented with stewed plums, warm cherries and mince meat with hints of Ceylon tea, black olives and Chinese five spice. Medium-full bodied and with a generous amount of flesh on the palate, it gives very crisp acid and a medium-firm level of grainy tannins, finishing long. The layered complexity of this wine is just beginning to emerge, promising better things to come.

The 1996 Grange is not the blockbuster it can be in the greatest vintages. At one time, this was the most renowned wine produced in Australia. While this remains one of Australia's finest wines, it has plenty of competition. The dense ruby/purple-colored 1996 Grange exhibits aromas of sweet blackberry/cassis, tar, licorice, and spice. Medium to full-bodied, with sweet tannin, a velvety texture, and surprising elegance, it should age effortlessly for 15-20 years. Importer: Southcorp Wines North America, Monterey, CA; tel. (408) 655-4848

Ruby-red. Complex, high-toned, oak-driven aromas of mocha, flowers, spices, bourbon, peat, licorice, vanilla, cigar tobacco and earth. Juicy and penetrating, with strong mineral, lead pencil, espresso and tobacco flavors. Has a solid backbone and noteworthy grip, but shows no hard edges. Finishes with big, ripe tannins and excellent length.

Tasted at the Fine Wine Experience “Dream Fourteen” tasting with Peter Gago. Sourced directly from Penfolds’ library reserves, the Grange ’96 is a blend of 94% Shiraz and 6% Cabernet. It has a deep garnet core with a ruby rim, still youthful in appearance. The nose has moderate intensity: black cherries, plum, orange rind, some tertiary elements developing with time, quite compact and despite vigorous coaxing it does not blossom or reveal hidden nuances. There is a slight bitterness on the entry: racy citrus fruit inflecting glossy fruit profile of redcurrant, kirsch and liquorices. A little volatility towards the finish, tangy, honeyed notes, touches of eucalyptus once again, quite firm structure. At present it is difficult to discern what exactly the Grange ’96 wants to say…if anything at all? Lend this another few years in the cellar. Drink 2016-2030. Tasted October 2009.

Heady and rich. Sweet and flattering. Long. Cough medicine. A rich jewel. Tight but rewarding. (JR)

Meaty, savoury and laced with vanilla spice on the nose. Mulberry fruit – rich and stewed in style, with superb persistence. Absolutely integrated in structure, with not a hair out of place. There's a lovely rusty bloodiness on the finish too. This is typically Shiraz and typically Penfolds, in all the best ways. (RH)