Confession: Grange has never been my favourite of the Penfolds portfolio (I am a St Henri girl) but I’ve been converted. And if ever a vintage were to turn me, 2021 was always going to be the one, heralded by many in South Australia as a ‘vintage of a lifetime’. Sourced from sites across the Barossa Valley (66%), McLaren Vale (26%) and Clare Valley (8%), it is a blend of 94% Shiraz and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, which spends 18 months in 100% new American oak hogsheads, and has already integrated seamlessly into the opulent fruit. My initial impressions, hurriedly typed, start with a string of descriptors that detail just how seductive it is already: “Wow! Exotic, inky, generous, silky, ripe, velvety. Immense. Incredible. The whole package!” (My colleague Georgie Hindle wrote: “Classy and so sophisticated. Like looking at a gorgeous man in a tuxedo.”) The trademark Grange volatile acidity presents itself as macerated balsamic strawberries, tapenade and tarmac, joining mouthfilling silky tannins and sumptuous aromas and flavours of boysenberry, root beer, mocha, salted liquorice and crème caramel. If you can ignore its siren call from the cellar, it easily has three to five decades of life ahead. Released at £600.

2021 was a magnificent season in South Australia, one blessed with good yields (a change from the previous several years of low yields and drought conditions), healthy rainfall leading into the season and dry, mild conditions during ripening. Vignerons could not have hoped for better conditions. So here, the 2021 Grange is powerful, ripe, structural yet balanced, long and complex. There is a softness to the middle palate, which speaks to the mildness of the conditions, potentially positioning this as one of the best modern-era Granges. The fruit (94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon) was sourced from Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley. For critics of this style, my only wish to assist with clarification could be teleportation, together, into a future 30 or 40 years from now. We would drink this wine, where it would still appear fresh and yet would have settled into its finesse and grace as well. It matured for 18 months in American oak, 100% new. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

Grips you from the first instance. As ever with Grange, the concentration and power of is delivered with such a deft and joyful hand, walking from beginning to end of the palate accompanied by distilled black fruits, flowers and herb-strewn aromatics. Delicious, such purity of expression, and truly it is one of the world's great wines. Tom King director, Peter Gago chief winemaker. 100% new American oak for ageing.

94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. 66% Barossa Valley, 26% McLaren Vale, Clare Valley (they now own this vineyard). From a very well-regarded South Australian vintage – generally drier than average with a mild summer. Aged for 18 months in American oak hogsheads (100% new). TA 6.9 g/l, pH 3.73. Black! Sweet and rich and polished. No heat! Just purple satin impressions in terms of texture. Very intense nose. Sweet and salt. Macerated purple berries with dry hickory sticks on the end. Long. Extremely youthful with a lot of ripe tannin on the end, even in a glass kept for several hours after the bottle was opened. This should eventually be very rewarding but it would be mad to open a bottle before 2030. (JR)