Campfire smoke, grilled in character, subdued, reserved, everything coiled inside, delicious balance with a little coaxing, and the striking thing here is the texture. A thoroughly charming wine, still young at 23 years, emphasis on dark brambled fruit, cassis, liqourice, soft crayon, not the most exuberant of the wines here, but it is one that you can sink into. 100% new American oak. Last year with John Duval as chief winemaker, before handing over to Peter Gago, who had been in the winemaking team since 1989.

One of the deeper colored wines in Penfolds’ portfolio is the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707. Aromas of forest floor, underbrush, black currants, and old wood emerge from this medium-bodied Cabernet. A clipped finish again suggests a bizarre fascination with low pH and acid levels that has nothing to do with the vineyard, terroir, vintage character, or pleasure. Nevertheless, there is enough black currant fruit to pull this wine into the acceptable category. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Penfolds needs to take a long, critical look at its winemaking philosophy. This is the great name in Australian winedom, and they should be a leader and reference point for fine winemaking. Obviously, they have access to some tremendous vineyard sites, and from a budgetary standpoint, they appear capable of doing anything they want. What is the purpose of sculpting wines that are essentially the products of a few oenologists connecting the dots and making wines by the numbers? The lack of naturalness and soul in these wines is worrisome. Importer: PWG Vintners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 996-4504