This is gorgeous, richly textured, a ton of dark chocolate, fennel, beautiful grip and lift, just storming out of the glass with energy and momentum, cassis and bilberry fruit, great classical Cabernet character with an extra zip in its step. Decades ahead of it but this is enjoyable to drink now, tannins have a chewy bite on the finish, these are muscular and ripe, great stuff. Wrattonbully part of the source vineyards for the first time here. 100% new American oak, Peter Gago chief winemaker.

The 2005 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon was aged for 16 months in 100% new American oak hogsheads. Already complex aromatically, scents of cedar, sage, clove, mineral, black currant, and blackberry waft from the glass. Smooth, layered, and bordering on opulent, this will be a long-lived Cabernet which should drink well for 25 years. Penfolds produces a bevy of excellent value-priced wines, many of which were reviewed in Issue 178. Importer: Southcorp Wines USA; www.penfolds.com.au

Very dark crimson with bright rim. Rich and heady – more South Australia (this is the wine based on the ancient Kalimna Vineyard that they claim contains the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the world but the wine may also contain fruit from Barossa, Coonawarra, McLaren Vale, Padthaway and the newer vineyards at Robe and Bordertown nowadays) than Cabernet on the nose. Round and flattering with spice and richness on the mid palate but with a very dry finish. Chewy and at this stage pretty hard work. Again like sucking gravel. Not opulent – determined to keep rigour and gather its skirts about it… pursing its lips. Not a hint of obvious eucalyptus about it but some interesting rich nutty notes. Talking of which, what has that talented Gago chappie got to say? He’s seeking chocolate character as 707's trademark and manages to find 'cocoa bean (Mocha Kenya)' in the nose. Good on ‘im. It’s certainly a very well-made wine indeed with clearly a great future ahead of it. Lock this one away for a decade, folks. There’s a very tight, almost austere finish but no obvious oak. (JR)