You can feel the richness to the texture even on the nose, and this feels very much a modern style. Things are just revving up at 15 years old, underlining the potential of great Australian Cabernet - you would find a ton of Médoc classifieds in the 2008 vintage that are far more evolved than this. Chewy tannins, espresso, liquorice, slate-scraping tannins, mint finish. So good, it's a slow build, slow burn, a one point upscore from my last tasting. 100% new American oak for ageing.

Matured in 100% new American oak, the 2008 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon gives pronounced notes of creme de cassis, cedar and blackberry preserves over a fragrant undercurrent of crushed mint, eucalypt, violets and forest floor. Very concentrated, rich and structured in the mouth, it has a firm level of chewy tannins, crisp acid and a long oaky finish with some spiciness coming through. It really needs time for the oak to integrate and should drink best 2014 to 2024+. Importer: Treasury Wine Estates, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-4500

Coonawarra mainly. Dusty, energetic, polished fruit. Cool and firm. Spearmint. Clean. Very pure. Wafting and rejuvenating the palate. Directed with some mintiness. Fresh as a mountain stream. (JR)