The 2001 Shiraz Magill Estate, which is meant to be one of Penfolds’ flagship offerings, offers a shy but enticing aromatic display of flowers, black fruits, forest floor, and wood. Elegant, medium-bodied, not terribly concentrated flavors once again display a certain acidic edge that is unnatural. Nevertheless, the quality and purity of the fruit, the pleasant aromatics, and the intrinsic qualities that have not been totally obliterated by acid obsessed oenologists pull the wine through, but one wonders what it could have been? Drink it over the next 5-7 years. Penfolds needs to take a long, critical look at its winemaking philosophy. This is the great name in Australian winedom, and they should be a leader and reference point for fine winemaking. Obviously, they have access to some tremendous vineyard sites, and from a budgetary standpoint, they appear capable of doing anything they want. What is the purpose of sculpting wines that are essentially the products of a few oenologists connecting the dots and making wines by the numbers? The lack of naturalness and soul in these wines is worrisome. Importer: PWG Vintners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 996-4504

Red-ruby. Musky aromas of raspberry, cassis and espresso. Sappy and dry, with slightly tart flavors and a green element on the back end; this came off as less sweet than the 2000 St. Henri Shiraz . The tannins are somewhat dry-edged. (Unfortunately, my bottle of the 2001 RWT Shiraz was corked.)