The 2016 Shiraz Magill Estate aged in 100% new oak (70% French and 30% American), which has left its cedary, vanilla mark on the wine, but in a balanced, harmonious way. It's a full-bodied wine, with big berry fruit and lavish oak, yet those components are wonderfully judged, coming together in a fine, elegant wine that showcases the brand's home estate in the Adelaide suburbs. With only 15 cases for the United States, it will be tough to track down.

If St Henri is atypical for its lack of new oak, so Magill, derived from a single estate, belies the Penfolds cross-regional philosophy. Matured for 13 months in new French and American oak, stylistically it's more elegant too. Intense spicy, floral blackberry Shiraz aromatics are accompanied by a hint of black pepper and a savoury note of black olive. Fine-textured blackberry fruit on the medium-to-full-bodied palate becomes sinewy then savoury, nicely supported by substantial vanilla from the new oak. It has a very promising future. One for roast partridge and slow-cooked belly of pork.

100% Magill Estate fruit. 13 months in 100% new French and American oak. This is the last vintage with all 12.5 acres; they’ve replanted half of it. Temperatures well below average during winter and early spring while winter rainfall was below the long-term average. The record low rainfall prevailed through the growing season while warmer than average weather in late spring and early summer ensured the vines were moving along nicely after a slow start. Some relief was provided by the onset of cooler weather in January and February. The relatively mild conditions during harvest ensured the fruit was able to ripen evenly across all blocks. The grapes were harvested by hand on 11 and 12 February. TA 6.8 g/l, pH 3.68. Blackish purple. Sweet and round and pzazzy. Big statement! Then a sudden dry finish. Briary. Screeching halt on the palate. (JR)