The 2016 RWT Shiraz is Penfolds's embodiment of Barossa Valley Shiraz. Aged in French oak (72% new), it offers hints of vanilla and cedar, but more than anything, it showcases the region's bold berry and plum fruit. Full-bodied and rich, verging on decadent, yet firmly structured and long on the finish, it's a powerful yet elegant wine that is capable of being consumed young or aging up to two decades. Having embarked on a career in the wine business right around the time the first RWT was released, it's a treat to see how the latest version is showing. It's a relative bargain among the Penfolds upper echelon.

The 2016 Barossa Valley harvest was outstanding, for both yield and quality – a mild Indian summer led to even ripening. Almost all the fruit comes from vineyards they own. 12 months in (72% new) French oak hogsheads. TA 6.8 g/l, pH 3.72. Dark purple. Very savoury and fun on the nose. Balsam. Round and gorgeous already. Long and neat and pencil lead and something a bit Piemontese about it. Very appealing and interesting. Long. (JR)