Tradition at its best. Small batch, hands on winemaking at Robert O’Callaghan’s retro-fitted bluestone winery employs a 1910 vintage petrol driven Bagshaw crusher, old basket presses and open slate fermenters. This is an expansive old vine Barossa Shiraz with earthy chocolate undertones and perfumed oak vanillin to its fleshy plum, spicy plum pudding, blackberry and cherry fruit flavours. Juicy with supple tannins, the finish is sustained and very satisfying. Terrific balance.

The 2008 Basket Press Shiraz comes from a vintage noted for a brutal heat wave during the harvest, yet it shows no raisining or dried fruit. It's still rich and full-bodied, with super ripe blackberry flavors and a bit of jamminess, then finishes dry and tannic. That dry edge will always be there, so there's no reason to defer gratification but also no rush to drink up.

Warm and salty nose – this reminds me of Simon Loftus's seminal journey round the Barossa. Still the slate fermenters here! Masses of character. And only a tad medicinal… Still a very chewy end even though it's eight years old! An Australian wine institution? Will it ever really have enough fruit in the middle? (JR)