In complete contrast, the 100% Grenache, 2004 Torbreck Grenache Les Amis was as effusive and sexy as they come. Presenting over the top richness with plenty of berry fruit, spice, and flowers, as well as a touch of volatile acidity (which I almost always find in David Powell’s upper tier wines), it was a complete knockout on the palate and was holding nothing back. Not for everyone given its exuberant ripeness and flesh, I still found it utterly compelling and a thrilling example of the variety. Drinking well now, it will continue to evolve gracefully for a number of years.

The brilliant 2004 Les Amis (100% Grenache aged 18 months in new oak) is fashioned from a vineyard planted in 1903. While it does not have quite the size and power of the 2002 Les Amis, it is still a Grenache on steroids. With wonderful purity, more elegance than the 2002, and remarkably well-integrated oak, I suspect it will shut down at some point, require 4-5 years of patience, then re-emerge and last for two decades or more. Importer: Deborah Gray, The Australian Wine Connection, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (760) 770-5446