A combination of 70-80% Cabernet Sauvignon, about 20% Merlot, and dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the 2004 Dry Red Wine No. 1 offers a beautiful perfume of incense, dried herbs, red and black fruits, damp earth, and cedar. With fabulous fruit purity, medium to full body, and moderately high tannin, this rich, stunning red should age effortlessly for twenty years. It will be even better with 2-4 more years of bottle age. Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

Ruby-red color. Intense aromas of cassis, kirsch, iron, graphite and violet; this really smells like traditional Bordeaux, say a Graves. Supple, finely etched flavors of bitter cherry, blackcurrant, subtle oak spices and cured tobacco carry endlessly through the finish, which features perfectly integrated tannins. This energetic, pure and precise wine should age effortlessly.

About two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon plus Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Deep ruby. A bit bretty on the nose. Some pure Cabernet fruit but a bit of Malbec gaminess – in fact a lot of gaminess. Not much fun. Acidity dominant. (JR)