Tasted again after three years, the Moric Burgenland Blaufränkisch 2017 Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben is pure yet intense, dense, fleshy and spicy on the concentrated nose. Silky, fresh and savory on the palate with lots of ripe but present tannins, this is a tight and concentrated yet still stringent red Blaufränkisch that isn't showing all of its talents at this stage (or from this altitude, which is 1,444 meters above sea level). It's very promising, though.

A little more lifted and red-fruited than the 2018. Tiny, wild sour berries add a lift to the aroma. Finely dry, elegant tannins, like many layers of paper. Really dry and deliciously so. Ethereal yet persistent. A complex wine that is quite hard to describe, a conundrum of dry freshness and restrained dark fruit. Not as savoury as the 2018, with a lovely fresh lift on the finish. (JH)