A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, this is a bold, dramatic and compelling debut wine from winemaker Maxence Dulou. Particularly impressive is the strong sense and imprint of place which is partially revealed by its saturated colour, exquisite ripeness, silky, grainy tannins and exciting freshness. The palate also provides sweet black and red cherry fruit overlaid with cool graphite, camphor as well as notes of juniper, pepper and cumin. Most surprising of all is the 15.1% alcohol which is both balanced and well hidden in the texture and freshness. It’s difficult to predict how long the wine will age and develop. But all the elements are there for a long and happy life.

This is Ao Yun’s inaugural vintage and is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. The 2013 Ao Yun has a deep garnet appearance, with only a slightly orange rim now emerging. On the nose, there is abundant toasted new oak with clove, smoke and vanilla-scented woody notes marrying with the marked herbaceous character of both Cabernet-family grapes. Expect blackcurrant leaf, grass and green bell pepper. The 2013 vintage has shown quite differently in bottle: It has consistently shown distinct pyrazine notes and plenty of new oak, but some bottles show a deeper core of cassis and bramble fruit than others. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied with a ripe coating and crunchy tannins, lifting acidity and generous alcohol—the 15% alcohol not integrating as well compared with other Ao Yun vintages such as 2015—shot through with marked herbaceous character, woody notes and a core of black fruit. There is moderate to longer length here, without the concentration and polish of the 2015 and 2016 vintages. While the 2013 is undeniably approachable now, it will nonetheless benefit from around a further 3-5 years of aging in bottle.

The first vintage of Ao Yun, now nine years old, showcasing melted tannins that cradle raspberry, red cherry and clove spices, with smoked tea and oyster shell on the finish. Overall long and drawn out with a finely balanced structure. The oak that was dominant in the early years when I tasted it in China is softer and more integrated, but there is a touch of dryness on the finish. The achievement here is immense, with winemaker Maxence Dulou successfully creating this from a location where everything had to be done by observation and trial-and-error, taking into account 500m of altitude variation between the four villages, and the hugely complex variations in exposure and terroir. Harvest September 20 (Xidang Village at 2,100m) through to November 11 (Adong Village, 2,600m). Aging took place in 40% new oak, 40% earth jar and 20% in stainless steel vats (all located in a temporary cellar).

Straight from the bottle: Concentrated, focused nose. Exotic and intense, true mountain wine with a hint of rich masses. Vivid flavours with a rich undertow. Pretty edgy acidity and rather a sudden finish. This seemed the least sophisticated of 2013, 2014 and 2015. Double decanted two hours earlier: This looked much more relaxed and resolved – and much smoother in texture although it was still a bit tight and chewy on the end. This was the richest and wildest of the three vintages. (JR)