The 2012 Riesling Grossi Laüe is from the Schonenbourg Grand Cru. Astonishingly, this is now ten years old but smells much younger. There is a lovely Mirabelle ripeness of juicy, sun-warmed fruit anchored in cooler stone. More air adds a lovely hint of dried hayflower. According to Jean-Frédéric, this is the slowest aging wine in their cellar and is the current release. The palate is even fruitier and juicier, yet with a beautiful contour of lemon, a subtle pithiness and a hint of smoke. This is smooth, sonorous and profound. The fact that there are 7.5g/L of residual sugar is a surprise; the finish seems drier and is long and mouth-watering. Serene and fragrant. (Dry)

This is wonderful. So much here – a panoply of flavour. Cuttlebone-chalk minerality and smoked grapefruit drizzled with buckwheat honey. Notes of roasted oats and long, citrus-soaked flintiness. Bright fruit tucked into every corner. Where does the minerality end and the acidity begin? Where does the fruit start and why doesn’t it finish? Saturated with itself. Reverberating finish. (TC)