This prestige cuvée is named after the man who started this Alsace wine dynasty, now in the hands of the 13th generation. Always a near-peerless Riesling, this new release is bone dry, structured and elegant, with savoury, nutty, autumnal notes and tangy citrus acidity. It's poised, powerful, complex and concentrated, with a seam of brisk yuzu-like acidity to complement the creamy nougat notes.

Bright straw-green. Aromas of lemon zest, menthol, crushed stone and saline oyster shell, plus a hint of musk. Concentrated and rich, with strong crushed rock and smoky, flinty nuances complementing nectarine, apple and pear flavors. Closes very long and powerful, with terrific energy and inner-mouth perfume, suggesting that there's even more ahead for this beauty.

A blend of two grand cru sites – Geisberg and Osterberg – produced by Trimbach since the 1960s. The soils here – clay and limestone over sandstone – are described as ‘not only stony, they are strongly alkaline, producing a wine of intense minerality and powerful acidity ’. Very cold August in 2008. TA 9.06 g/l, RS 1 g/l, pH 3.09. Light nose needs coaxing out of the glass. Absolutely bone dry and SO youthful! Tension and too austere to charm at present. You have to take this on trust for the moment. (JR)