(67% sauvignon blanc and 33% semillon): Dark gold-tinged straw-yellow. Smoky herbs, grapefruit pith and honeydew melon aromas are complicated by white peach and spicy pear. Dense and brisk on entry, then a bit diffuse in the middle, but with vibrant flavors of passion fruit, grapefruit and herbs. Firm and bright but quite ripe too, showing nothing green or hard on the long, bracing finish. Seems less focused than recent vintages of Aile d'Argent, but perhaps another year in the bottle will help it gain precision.

The 2013 Aile d'Argent Blanc has an attractive nose of lime leaf, grapefruit and a touch of yellow plum, still a little new oak to be assimilated, but otherwise very appealing. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of almond and lemongrass on the entry, crisp acidity ,but just missing a little length on the finish to merit a higher evaluation. Enjoy this white from Philippe Dhalluin and the team over the next 7-10 years. Tasted August 2015.

Pineapple, mint, white flowers and lemon inform the Aile d'Argent, Mouton's Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend. The 2013 is supple and resonant, with good acidity from the cool harvest and a soft, textured finish. Aile d'Argent is 67% Sauvignon Blanc and 33% Semillon from the Mouton Rothschild property in Pauillac.

Mineral and lively. Fresh and saline even if a tad less lively than the 2014 I tasted with winemaker Philippe Dhalluin in June (look out for a forthcoming account of all that I tasted then). Leesy and quite rich with some grapefruit notes. They say they are trying to produce the white burgundy of Bordeaux. (JR)

Harvested 23–27 September. 67% Sauvignon 33% Sémillon. Quite evolved in colour and on the nose. Ripe stone fruit with waxy, oaky characters and a hint of gunflint. Around 10% Sauvignon Gris in the blend adding to the exotic edge. Kept in check by enough acidity. At its best already. (AWH)