Another remarkable wine from Jonathan Maltus, the 2016 Les Astéries is a blend of 83% Merlot and 17% Cabernet Franc that’s from very old vines and pure limestone soils. Blackberries, black raspberries, licorice, crushed rocks, and graphite notes all emerge from this incredibly layered, balanced, lengthy beauty that has full-bodied richness and power, yet the balance and elegance of a ballerina. Hide bottles for 4-5 years, and it will keep for two decades.

The 2016 Les Asteries is composed of 83% Merlot and 17% Cabernet Franc, aged in 80% new French oak. Deep garnet-purple colored, it charges forth with exuberant wild blueberries, raspberry preserves and baked plums scents with an undercurrent of espresso, chargrill, wood smoke and licorice. Full-bodied, firm and solidly constructed, it has a taut, grainy texture and bags of muscular black fruit, finishing on a lingering ferrous note.

An array of fresh, ripe dark berries and plums with some floral elements, as well as a chalky and cedary edge. The palate has a riper feel with quite full body and dense, firm tannins that frame the rich dark fruit. Try from 2022.

This is on the limestone plateau next to Fonroque. An excellent wine, it has hugely plump fruit with a beautiful minerality throughout. The difference in pH compared to Le Dôme is striking - down at 3.44 compared to 3.81. The blend is 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc.

Tasted blind. First bottle oxidised. Far too evolved. Second bottle wildly TCA tainted! (JR)