The 1988 may need 20 years to reach its peak, as it is probably the most tannic, young Ausone I have ever tasted. The tannins are extremely hard, even astringent, but unlike a number of 1988s where the balance between tannins and fruit favors the tannin (always a troubling sign), here is a case where there is plenty of juicy red and black fruit extract in a medium-bodied, superbly concentrated, very intense and powerful wine. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2040. Last tasted, 4/93.

Bottle proffered for my birthday. Deep garnet core with faint, thin dark brick rim. The nose is quite spicy, earthy and Graves in style. Burnt toast, turning more mulberry-ish with aeration. The palate is tannic at first but becomes more rounded with notes of blueberries and cassis. Backward but focused and very long. A bit frayed on the finish, a touch of volatility. A very fine Ausone that needs another 3-5 years to reach its peak. Tasted February 2004.