Tasted by Jane Anson (at Primeur week tastings in Bordeaux, 01 May 2021)

This is powerful and blows away much of the competition with its depth and layers. This needs you to pull up a chair, take a beat, and let the flavours unroll. There is so much density to the blueberry, bilberry and smoked raspberry fruits that they start out knitted down, then as the oxygen opens them up the body of the wine widens and becomes fleshier and creamier, adding chocolate and mocha notes. The limestone scrape is there in spades through the finish, and this is a cleverly constructed wine. As ever Ausone is just a masterclass in how to take apart and then put back together a terroir. Great stuff. First year of official conversion to organic farming. 100% new oak, some in 30hl oak casks. Could go up after tasting in bottle, a potential 100 points.

Drinking Window 2028 - 2048

A stunning wine, that seduces with a creamy luscious kick of spiced raspberry and blueberry fruit on the first moments, then the more austere touch of limestone, with fingers of orange peel, lemongrass, steel and slate add a stricter character. This is just a masterclass in clever winemaking, in knowing exactly when to step back and let the terroir take over. The depths on offer here are both hidden and yet fully apparent, and as it gathers steam through the palate, gunsmoke and mocha appear, along with the tell-tale oyster shell salinity on the finish. 100% new oak, Pauline Vauthier winemaker with cellar master Philippe Baillarguet. First year of official conversion to organic farming.

The 2020 Ausone is stellar. Usually a showier wine, Ausone is packed with bright acids, deep fruit and tons of supporting structure. Dark red fruit, blood orange, pomegranate, rose petal, mocha and dried herbs all race out of the glass. Deep and layered, with magnificent finesse, Ausone is lights out in 2020. What a wine. Readers lucky enough to own it are in for a thrilling ride over the next few decades.

A blend of equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot (the last time it was this blend was in 2010), the 2020 Château Ausone spent 20 months in new French oak, which has already been just about completely absorbed by this beauty. In comparison to the Chapelle d'Ausone, the Grand Vin is tighter and straighter, with an incredible yet primordial bouquet of red, blue, and black fruits intermixed with notions of iron, smoked tobacco, and graphite, with a liqueur of rocks-like sense of minerality. Dense purple-hued, full-bodied, backward, incredibly concentrated, and powerful, it has building tannins, a dense, stacked mid-palate, and enough structure and baby fat to warrant a solid decade of bottle age. This is a powerful Ausone built for the long haul, and it will unquestionably rank with the greats from the Vauthier family.

Deep and layered with rich, ripe blackcurrant, cherry and plum fruit that expands slowly while the texture – sleek, straight and direct – does the talking. Clean with a powdery mineral grip of liquorice and graphite that takes hold and doesn't let go. Structured and focused, no doubt muscular in its power yet so finely knit together. Laser-sharp, serious at the moment, this will take a while before it really starts to shine. It's not out to charm right now but it certainly captivates.

The 2020 Ausone was picked at 37hl/ha (a little bit less than 2019 according to Pauline Vauthier) on 14 and 19 September for the Merlot, 23 and 29 September for the Cabernet Franc, matured in entirely new barriques with a light toasting. This 2020 has a tightly wound nose at first, needing more encouragement than other recent vintages. It then, almost reluctantly, reveals intense black cherry, blueberry and violet aromas. Maybe this is not as hedonistic as other years? The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, ripe tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Now the more opulent Ausone comes through, albeit succinctly controlled, with lightly spiced red fruit and a finely proportioned and quite persistent finish. Sophisticated and classy, this rather brilliant Ausone will mature with grace and style.
vinous.com

(50% M, 50% CF; 66% harvest; 26hl/ha; 14.5% ABV; 100% new)
Dense and with a beautifully defined pure, floral, and subtly black-cherry-sweet nose; rich, full, fresh, and very finely tannic within its restrained profile; there is nothing pronounced here, just a beautiful core of mineral-infused, black-cherry fruit, very limestone-marked, long, delicate, graceful, and transparent, always mouthcoatingly fragrant, and with great persistence. Absolutely benchmark, top-notch, limestone-plateau St-Emilion, with its characteristic combination of delicacy and power, more reminiscent of the best red Burgundies. A wine of exceptional subtlety and scope allied to a beautiful fruit presence. Probably accessible relatively early but, of course, with years of perfumed pleasure down the decades. 2035–60+.

A blend of equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the 2020 Ausone wafts from the glass with aromas of dark berries and cherries mingled with notions of incense, spices and raw cocoa framed by a creamy patina of new oak. Medium to full-bodied, layered and seamless, it's pure and concentrated, with a sweet core of fruit, generously extracted tannins and a vanillin-inflected finish. Less seamless and sensual than the lovely 2019, it will require some patience to come together, but there is no mistaking the quality of the terroir here.

50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot. Cask sample.
Deep and intense with mineral, dark fruit and chocolate notes. Initially broad across the palate then firm, long, fresh and structured. Plentiful tannins but very fine and enrobed in generous fruit. Powerful but elegant with loads packed into the wine. Striking potential. (JL)

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Vibrant dark-red fruits, fragrant and open. Very fine tannins, juicy freshness. Much more approachable than many 2020s but with a long life ahead. Elegant restraint and masses of freshness. (JH)