Deep ruby to the rim. Extravagant aromas of black fruits, violets, and toffee. Voluptuous and sweet; this has outstanding concentration but with so much baby fat there's little delineation on the palate. Finishes with a kick of alcohol and substantial ripe tannins. Very dense, but while a flight of other top right-bank wines were sending off fireworks in the glass, this chunky wine sat like a lump of coal.

Very dark crimson. Sweet, gamey and rich on the nose with far more concentration than many 1990s yet with sufficient refreshment too. This tasted a bit like a souped-up Graves. Racy. Perhaps this wine communicates winemaking a little bit more than terroir but it's a great, compact, dense wine with lift and more than a hint of soy sauce. Umami, anyone? (JR)

One of the most singular Bordeaux I have ever tasted, it verges on being port-like, but it pulls back because of the extraordinary minerality and laser-like focus. The wine is massively concentrated, still black/purple-hued to the rim, and offers a nose of incense, blackberries, blueberry liqueur, acacia flowers, and forest floor. It reveals low acidity and high tannins, which are largely concealed by the sheer concentration and lavish glycerin the wine possesses. Aging at a glacial pace, it is approachable, but it will not hit its peak until 2020; it should last for twenty years thereafter.

I've been lucky enough to have the 1990 Château Beauséjour (Duffau-Lagarrosse) multiple times recently, and it's never fails to absolutely stop me in my tracks. Still youthfully ruby-hued, with a massive array of ripe red and black fruits, truffly earth, graphite, saddle leather, and an incredible sense of minerality, this singular Saint-Emilion hits the palate with full-bodied richness and depth while staying laser-like focused and sensationally elegant. I don't know what yields were at this time, but the level of concentration, depth, and richness paired with it a chiseled, focused mouthfeel (no doubt from the limestone in this vineyard) is something to behold. It's fully mature today, and I don't see any upside, so don't make the mistake of waiting too long. This is one of the legendary wines of Saint-Emilion that I truly wish every reader could taste!