This stunning, evolved, dark plum/ruby-hued 2008 reveals aromas of forest floor, sweet black and red currants, licorice and roasted herbs. Classic, elegant and medium to full-bodied, it provides a sexy, complex, intellectual as well as hedonistic turn-on. Drink this delicious Margaux over the next 12-15+ years.

Tasted ex-château and single blind in Southwold. The Brane-Cantenac 2008 continues to show well in bottle after being such a “broody bugger” in barrel. I feel that this nose does not quite have the complexity or intensity of a truly great Brane-Cantenac, since it appears to lack a little vigour on the nose compared to its peers with delicate, understated notes of cedar and a little graphite. The palate has a saline entry with touches of shellfish. It has rather abrasive earthy tannins (typical of Brane-Cantenac) but it displays fine definition towards the finish. It remains somewhat difficult to taste now, but it offers natural charm at this early stage. Tasted January 2012.