Like Certan de May, I bought this in both half and 750 ml bottles. Only recently have the half bottles reached full maturity, and the 750 ml remains a massive, backward wine for long-term aging. A dense, opaque garnet color is followed by notes of roasted meats, herbs, black currants, incense, and damp earth. Full-bodied, still extremely tannic (sweet but noticeable tannins), rich, and backward, where perfectly stored, this 1982 will last for another 50 years. The estate has always compared it to their 1947, which is still a vibrant wine, and the 1982 should be just as profound. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2040

Good medium red, with a hint of amber at the rim. Very aromatic, inviting nose of redcurrant, leather and tobacco. Intensely flavored and gripping, with a slightly raisiny singed plum character but also solid framing acidity that gives the wine a juicy quality. Quite fat and full. Finishes with superb structure and grip. (A second, rather different bottle of equal quality showed cherry, currant, licorice and menthol aromas; a dense, backward palate impression; and lovely restrained sweetness and a note of spice cake on the youthfully firm finish.)

The Château Calon-Ségur 1982 continues to be a delightful fully mature Saint Estephe. It has a similar bouquet to the bottle tasted in Hong Kong in 2012, with Chinese tea and leather, roasted herbs and here, just a suggestion of cocoa. The palate is medium-bodied but fuller than the Batailley 1982, tasted alongside. It exerts a gentle grip and like last time, perhaps there is a hint of brettanomyces towards the finish. But otherwise, this continues to drink well, albeit in an old-fashioned way. If you can abide a bit of rusticity in your 1982 Claret, then this Calon-Ségur will fit the bill. Tasted July 2014.