Precise and confident texture to this wine, has higher levels of both Cabernets in 2023 than in 2022, having reached exceptional maturity, and personally I feel that have recaptured the heart and spirit of Calon. Skilfully made, love the violet peony savoury character, it's sappy and has liqourice root and squid ink salinity, along with tons of cassis and cigar box. The blend for this was built on Cabernet, and you can feel it. My favourite Calon since the 2020 vintage, hands down. 100% new oak, director Vincent Millet.

Blackcurrant, blueberry, cedar, pine needle and black truffle here. I don't think much about the nose with barrel samples, but this is splendid. It's medium-bodied with very fresh acidity and fine, linear tannins that are long and lively. Energy here. Refined. Salty character at the last minute. I may like this better than 2022. A blend of 72% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, 12% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot.

The 2023 Calon-Ségur is another en primeur success for this resurgent Saint-Estèphe third growth. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, wild berries and plums, it's medium to full-bodied, cool and layered, with a deep and integrated core, terrific concentration, lively acids and refined structuring tannins, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. It's a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot that checks in at 14% alcohol.

Sweet and fresh bramble berry notes on the nose. Some toast, liquorice, dark chocolate, tobacco, cedar and clove. Succulent and supple, this has a lovely energy and focus but with density and bite at the same time. Chalky, fleshy tannins fill the mouth but at the same time as a liquorice and slate flavour lingers on the cheeks. Both fruity and lean and straight at the same time. Not yet so harmonised, but there’s finesse and refinement to the expression and nothing feels out of place or too much. Has a juicy centre and a touch of sweet strawberries that lift the expression which is so pleasant. Ends clean and grippy. It’s very good and you can't fault the refinement, clarity and precision on show. More Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than last year at 72%. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 55% grand vin production. 3.7pH. 45hl/ha yield. Ageing 20 months, 100% new.

The 2023 Calon Ségur is a wine for readers who can be patient. In many recent years Calon Ségur has been quite showy but this is not one of them. Bold acids and huge tannins dominate at this stage. Bright red-toned fruit is a signature but the 2023 is a powerful young Calon Ségur that will clearly need time to come together. Bright acids extend the finish beautifully. 2033-2063

The 2023 Calon-Ségur is another en primeur success for this resurgent Saint-Estèphe third growth. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis pencil shavings wild berries and plums it's medium to full-bodied cool and layered with a deep and integrated core terrific concentration lively acids and refined structuring tannins concluding with a long penetrating finish. It's a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon 15% Merlot 12% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot that checks in at 14% alcohol.

The 2023 Calon Ségur was picked September 6 to 30 at 45hL/ha. As usual it is being aged entirely in new oak for a planned 20 months. It has a tight cohesive bouquet of predominantly black fruit intermixed with wild hedgerow tobacco and melted tar. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive grip on the entry—quite fresh with a subtle marine tincture and a touch of Japanese nori in the background. It gently fans out on the finish but it remains controlled and especially linear for Calon-Ségur perhaps less swayed by the Merlot (15% of the blend). Classy.

72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot . 45 hl/ha. Cask sample. Dark-fruit and menthol notes. Less mid-palate volume than 2022 but some might prefer this slenderer version. Pure, long and focused with a lovely texture of tannin. (JL)