Blackcurrant, blueberry, cedar, pine needle and black truffle here. I don't think much about the nose with barrel samples, but this is splendid. It's medium-bodied with very fresh acidity and fine, linear tannins that are long and lively. Energy here. Refined. Salty character at the last minute. I may like this better than 2022. A blend of 72% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, 12% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot.

The 2023 Calon-Ségur is another en primeur success for this resurgent Saint-Estèphe third growth. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis pencil shavings wild berries and plums it's medium to full-bodied cool and layered with a deep and integrated core terrific concentration lively acids and refined structuring tannins concluding with a long penetrating finish. It's a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon 15% Merlot 12% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot that checks in at 14% alcohol.

The 2023 Calon Ségur is a wine for readers who can be patient. In many recent years Calon Ségur has been quite showy but this is not one of them. Bold acids and huge tannins dominate at this stage. Bright red-toned fruit is a signature but the 2023 is a powerful young Calon Ségur that will clearly need time to come together. Bright acids extend the finish beautifully. 2033-2063

The 2023 Calon Ségur was picked September 6 to 30 at 45hL/ha. As usual it is being aged entirely in new oak for a planned 20 months. It has a tight cohesive bouquet of predominantly black fruit intermixed with wild hedgerow tobacco and melted tar. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive grip on the entry—quite fresh with a subtle marine tincture and a touch of Japanese nori in the background. It gently fans out on the finish but it remains controlled and especially linear for Calon-Ségur perhaps less swayed by the Merlot (15% of the blend). Classy.