Performing as I expected, but still several years away from full maturity, this extraordinarily flamboyant, full-bodied, opulent, sexy St. Emilion stood out for its backward structure and youthful personality. A dark plum/garnet hue is followed by a superb bouquet of roasted coffee, kirsch, blackberries, licorice, herbs, and forest floor. Full-bodied, dense, rich, and pure, it is a total hedonistic as well as intellectual turn-on. Enjoy it over the next decade.

Moderately saturated ruby-red. Knockout superripe nose combines red- and blackcurrant, mocha, smoked meat and chocolatey torrefaction. Sweet and dense, but also lively and penetrating, with superb freshness of fruit for the vintage; showing little sign of its 13.5% alcohol. Pliant flavors of cherry, spice, tobacco and flowers. Finishes impressively long, with very fine tannins. Owner von Neipperg noted that most of the cabernet franc here was planted prior to 1953; a good bit of merlot was planted in 1969, with more going in in 1986.

The 2000 Canon-la-Gaffelière, aged in 90% new oak for 18 months without fining, is a vintage that I have had several times since tasting it from barrel. The nose has mellowed and softened in recent years, now offering mulberry, singed leather, tea leaf and just a hint of wild mint. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and plenty of red fruit, here laced with white pepper, tobacco and a touch of muskiness toward the finish. This was always impressive in its flush of youth and remains so in full maturity. I would drink bottles over the next 10 years.