The 2008 Canon-la-Gaffelière is a wine that I have not tasted for a few years. Now at a decade old, it has a lovely bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, touches of graphite and a little balsamic, yet fresh and nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied with melted tannin. This feels rounded and appeasing in the mouth, no rough edges, secondary notes of cedar and wild mushroom augmenting the dark berry fruit with hints of bay leaf and black tea lining the understated, creamy-textured finish. You could contentedly drink this now and over the next decade. This comes recommended. (Tasted at the château and at BI Wine & Spirit’s annual vertical tasting.)

A sensational sleeper of the vintage, this modern-styled St.-Emilion boasts a dark purple color along with a beautiful bouquet of black olives, cherry jam, incense, spicy oak and black currants. Full-bodied, unctuously textured, lush, seductive and gloriously perfumed, this strikingly intense claret can be drunk now and over the next 12-15 years. Bravo!

Bright, full red-ruby. Plum, spicecake, coffee, chocolate and lead pencil on the very ripe nose. Sweet, lush and broad, with a mouthfilling texture to the dark berry and spice flavors. Has enough acidity to maintain its shape but this is already accessible. Finishes with suave, ripe tannins and excellent length.

Expressive nose with mint, leather, sweet spices and cedar – full of charm and eloquence, and the palate delivers deliciously balanced acid refreshment with finely ground tannins. Sheer pleasure, still with ample primary fruit yet loads of sophisticated secondary aromas. (RH)

Tasted blind. Light, simple nose with lots of stoniness on the end. Gentler texture and finish than most. (JR)