Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Caronne Ste Gemme strides confidently from the glass with classic notes of cassis, blackberry pie and baked plums, plus there are wafts of pencil shavings, menthol and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate delivers plenty of dried herbs-laced black fruits, supported by chewy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing savory.

The 2018 Caronne Ste Gemme is an Haut-Médoc that felt a little green when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle, the aromatics appear to have gained more composure and harmony, offering cedar-infused black fruit while tempering the exoticism of yore. The palate is medium-bodied with moderate weight and fine, grippy tannins. There is less of that green edge toward the finish, although it still feels a little rustic and lacks real complexity. I know that this estate can produce better.

60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot. 5% Petit Verdot. Barrel sample. Black heart with narrow purple rim. Dark-fruited and spicy, with a delicate floral note, perhaps from the Petit Verdot. Attractively fragrant. On the palate, chocolate-smooth but the fruit wins out over the sweetness of the oak. It's not a blockbuster but it has good depth of fruit and good balance even now. Dry, chewy finish but there's juicy fruit to keep it fresh. (JH)