A very intense, expressive nose of blackberry, espresso and an animal quality. Good definition, almost Rhone-like. Smooth entry, full-bodied. Blackberry, coffee, huge tannins. Muscular, again almost Rhone-like. Very high extraction with a pain grille finish. Needs another five years at least. Slight astringency on the finish. Tasted September 2006.

I have noticed in my tastings that the second wine of Lafite-Rothschild, Carruades de Lafite, has improved over recent years. The 1996, a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot, may turn out to be the finest Carruades I have ever tasted. It possesses as much power, ripeness, and fleshy fruit (because of the high percentage of Merlot) as I have ever detected in this offering. While it does not quite have the characteristics of Lafite, being fleshier and more accessible, it is a beautifully made wine with a subtle dosage of toasty new oak, an appealing texture, and excellent length. Given its power, this second wine will need 2-4 years of cellaring, and keep for 15+ years (I would not be surprised to see it last for two decades).

Mainly from young vines and the north-facing plots across the main road from the Château. Dark ruby with some age. Aristocratic fragrance. Lovely build with real freshness and fruit concentration. Far too good for the prices charged then for Carruades! Really subtle and Lafite-like. Racy. This is a really lovely wine for current drinking. Anyone who bought it en primeur should feel so proud of themselves.

Tasted first at the château in July, then again at a Berry Bros supper in late November, and both time it effortlessly showcased why Lafite is one of the most sought-after estates in the world. Takes its time to open, even at 25 years old, but a bit of patience and you are rewarded with rosebud, tuffle, ash, pencil lead and crushed mint, all gently playing around the cassis, bilberry and blackberry fruits. There is huge concentration here, but everything is in balance, and you rejoice in the tertiary notes that give gentleness and juice to the overall feel. Charles Chevallier estate director at the time, Jacques Boissenot consultant. Harvest began September 24, 58hl/h yield. The first Lafite to be put in an anti-fraud engraved bottle.