The 1998 Lafite-Rothschild is served from double magnum directly from the château reserves, in fact with the man who made it sitting opposite me – Charles Chevalier. I must admit to being quite amazed how well this shows at 20-years of age, trouncing all the other First Growths except Haut-Brion. Lucid in colour, it has a vivid bouquet of pure blackberry, blueberry, vanilla and graphite, perhaps just a little uncharacteristically showy in style, but beautifully defined and intense. The palate is perfectly balanced with layers of ripe black fruit, perfectly pitched acidity and a silky smooth texture that renders this utterly seductive. It is almost too good for me to recommend cellaring longer. Whatever...it is a sublime Lafite-Rothschild that on this showing, may well challenge the supremacy of the 1996. Tasted at the Académie du Vin dinner in Bordeaux.

Drinking at full maturity yet with plenty of life ahead of it, the 1998 Carruades De Lafite offers up beautiful Pauillac ripe currant, graphite, lead pencil, and smoky tobacco nuances, and it builds nicely with time in the glass. Medium-bodied and concentrated, it has a beautiful core of sweet fruit, ripe, polished tannins, and just an overall balanced, classy, incredibly satisfying style. Drink bottles any time over the coming 10-15 years. Drink 2025-2040.

This has become one of the finest second wines produced. The 1998 (a blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 4.5% Cabernet Franc, and 1.5% Petit Verdot) is an outstanding effort. While very Lafite-like (although more supple and forward), it exhibits a dense ruby/purple color in addition to an excellent bouquet of black fruits, smoke, earth, and minerals, supple tannin, an excellent texture, and a long, fine finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2015.

Ruby-red. Red berries and mint on the reticent nose. Juicy, leanish and a bit closed in on itself, with slightly green flavors of dark berries and minerals. Quite dry but offers sneaky intensity and a lingering finish. This should benefit from a few years of patience. Very much like Lafite in miniature.