2004 Chateau Certan de May, Pomerol

Another great from the Moueix stable. A wonderful nose of blackberry, raisin and dark chocolate. A very smooth entry, seamless tannins and velvety texture. Firm grip. Lithe and persistent on the finish. A decadent Pomerol that has an irresistible sensuous finish. Excellent. Tasted April 2005.

Tannic, rough-hewn, and backward, but also dense and promising, this dark plum/purple-tinged 2004 offers notes of forest floor, roasted herbs, asphalt, sweet black cherries, and minerals. The complex aromatics are followed by a medium-bodied, tannic, muscular Pomerol that requires 3-4 years of bottle age. It should drink well for 15+ years.

Saturated ruby-red. Black raspberry, mocha, espresso, tobacco, underbrush and pepper on the nose. Creamy-rich and pliant, if a bit laid-back today. Shows more chocolate, licorice and minerals than primary fruit. Not especially sweet at present but offers good density and inner-mouth energy. Finishes with fine, dusty tannins and sneaky length. An improvement over recent vintages, with Michel Rolland now consulting here.