(12% alcohol; 52 h/h): Ruby red with an amber rim. A whiff of volatile acidity blows off to reveal aromas of clove, pine needles and mint; became fruitier with air, with red berry and cherry aromas emerging. Given the initially floral-herbal nose, this enters the mouth surprisingly sweet, dense and rich, with ripe flavors of raspberry, red cherry and underbrush nicely extended at the back by lively, harmonious acidity. Finishes with above-average concentration and outstanding length and precision, with a strong cabernet franc personality to its lingering floral and white pepper spiciness. I've always thought of the 1953 Cheval Blanc as a wine of finesse and charm (at least from my prior tastings of it), but this bottle was remarkably powerful and full. The harvest took place from September 21 to October 7, though Pierre Lurton told me he felt this wine has an almost late-harvest personality. Pretty amazing wine given the relatively high yield of the year, and one of the stars of this vertical tasting.

In the fifties, the greatest vintage is the 1953. I am sure this wine has been fully mature for at least 15-20 years. Nevertheless, it has held its magic for that considerable period, and is still the most fragrant, and from an aromatic perspective, the most compelling Cheval Blanc I have ever tasted. Perhaps the 1982 will turn out to be this profoundly perfumed. It is not a blockbuster, but is incredibly seductive, and so soft and silky. Last tasted 3/96