The 1988 reveals layer upon layer of honeyed pineapple-and orange-scented and -flavored fruit, vibrant acidity, high levels of botrytis, and a fabulously long, yet well-focused finish. It is a great wine.

Tasted at the Bordeaux Index’s Chateau Climens dinner. There is a sense of natural refinement to the ’88 Climens with a fragrant bouquet of beeswax, honeysuckle and a hint of tinned pineapple. So much freshness and vitality, although it will be fascinating to see how it evolves further. The palate is wonderfully poised, pure and precise; more citrus than previous bottles with a good level of botrytis, building nicely towards the focused mellifluous, peachy finish that suggests this Climens has a long future ahead. Tasted November 2009.

Youthful yellow color, with aromas of sliced lemons, lemon tart, and tropical fruit. Medium- to full-bodied, with medium sweetness and a lively fruity finish. Lots of dried fruit and spicy botrytis character. Refined and balanced.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008).