This vintage for Climens goes from strength to strength. The yields, which we a microscopic 10 hectolitres per hectare, have produced nearly 3,000 cases of a spectacular wine that has a medium-deep gold colour and a gorgeous nose of honeysuckle, vanilla, pineapple, acacia, creme brulee, and roasted nuttiness. In the mouth, it is full bodied, atypically powerful for a Climens (the residual sugar of 130 grams per litre is very high for this estate), and the massive finish goes on for well over a minute. In spite of such exceptional richness, there is good acidity, giving the wine uplift and definition. Anticipated maturity: now-2035.

The 1990 continues to develop exceptionally well (better than I thought), and now looks to be a worthy rival of the dazzling 1988. The superb aromatics (pineapple, acacia, vanilla, and honey) are followed by a rich, full-bodied, atypically powerful Climens that possesses adequate acidity, high alcohol, and even higher levels of extract and fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2030.

Rich amber-gold color. Slightly edgy, botrytized aromas of honey, vanilla, marmalade, caramel, mint and barley sugar. Thick and powerful, with terrific intensity of flavor and elevated alcohol. Suggestions of honey and cooked fruit. An atypically powerful style of Climens whose substantial dry extract gives it an almost solid impression. Not terribly sweet on the aftertaste (despite a relatively high 70 grams per liter residual sugar), which features hints of grapefruit and caramel and a slight alcoholic harshness. This will require many years of additional aging, and may yet achieve a better balance. But will it ever match the '89 for sheer class?