1994 Chateau Clinet, Pomerol

Exotic aromas of violets, berry and toasted oak waft from this full-bodied wine. Packed to the brim with fruit and tannins and impressively long on the finish. Superb red from a producer known for opulence. Better in 2000. James Suckling

Very good deep color. Superripe aromas of black raspberry and caramel. Lush and sweet in the mouth, with intriguing suggestions of iron and curry powder. A wine of huge extraction, but one that began with very strong raw material. Finishes with substantial chewy tannins and persistent flavor.

Since 1987, this estate has consistently produced one of the most concentrated and complex wines in Bordeaux. The decision by Jean-Michel Arcaute and oenologist Michel Rolland to (1) limit yields, (2) harvest physiologically ripe grapes with an element of sur-maturitie, and (3) bottle the wine without fining or filtration has resulted in a bevy of splendid wines where the terroir and varietal composition are fully expressed. Inky purple/garnet-colored, with an outrageously intense nose of black truffles, licorice, cedar, and black fruits, this phenomenally extracted wine borders on being too concentrated for its own good. This massive, huge wine possesses 25-30 years of potential longevity. The fruit's remarkable intensity and purity, as well as the liqueur-like richness and unctuosity are something to experience. This is an exceptionally dense, massively-endowed, controversial style of Pomerol that will reward those with patience. The tannins are strong, but so is the extract level. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2025.

Inky purple/garnet-colored, with an outrageously intense nose of black truffles, licorice, cedar, and black fruits, this phenomenally extracted wine borders on being too concentrated for its own good. This massive, huge wine possesses 20-25 years of potential longevity. The fruit’s remarkable intensity and purity, as well as the liqueur-like richness and unctuosity are something to experience. This is an exceptionally dense, massively-endowed, controversial style of Pomerol that will reward those with patience. The tannins are strong, but so is the extract level. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2025.

The 1994 Clinet is a vintage that I have only encountered once before, back in 2011. This bottle showed well. Blackberry, raspberry preserve and tobacco open the aromatics, the Cabernet Franc component surfacing with time and lending a distinct ferrous scent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. The growing season dictates a very linear and, some might say, "conservative" Clinet since it does not convey that opulence or complexity of the 1989 or 1990. Even though it pulls up a tad short, it does offer that hint of truffle on the finish that directs you towards Pomerol and well-stored bottles such as this should continue to drink well. Tasted blind at "Philip's Belated February Christmas Party." www.vinous.com