Drink 2011-2030
-Parker's Wine Buyer's Guide No 7

The 2005 Clos l’Eglise gives the brilliant 2001, 2000, and1998 a run for their money. Time will tell if it eventually eclipses those three sensational efforts. A huge, sweet nose of creme brulee intermixed with black cherry liqueur, blackberries, tar, caramel, and mocha/coffee soars from the glass of this blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Opulence, superb intensity, abundant quantities of sweet toasty oak, a full-bodied richness, and excellent purity as well as depth suggest it will age effortlessly for over two decades. This is a brilliant Pomerol from proprietor Helene Garcin and her consulting winemaker, Dr. Alain Raynaud.

The talented and charming Sylvie Garcin runs this tiny property of 15 acres, planted with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The wine is aged in 100% new oak. The 2005 is dense ruby/purple, with notes of smoky barbecue, crushed blackcurrants and jammy cherries, with some licorice and earth in the background (truffle?). This full-bodied, multi-dimensional, full-throttle and concentrated Pomerol is top class. This is a great example of the vintage and of this beautiful terroir not far from Pomerol’s church. Approachable now, it will even improve for another 5-10 years and drink well for at least two more decades.

(14% alcohol) Full red-ruby. Superripe, even decadent aromas of plum, redcurrant and caramel; very Pomerol. Like liquid silk in the mouth, with an extravagant sweetness and lushness to the middle palate. Wonderfully fine-grained and rich, with its fruit component in the background today. The finish goes on and on, and is almost shockingly vibrant. In terms of aromatic persistence, this was one of the longest wines of my week on the Right Bank. A compelling wine.

The Clos l’Eglise 2005 is more backward on the nose compared to its peers, but I appreciate the delineation here: blackberry, cedar and just a touch of peppermint. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. There is just a dash of black pepper on the entry: quite grippy in the mouth that fans out in controlled fashion. This feels slightly sultry at the moment but it will gain some flesh as it continues to mature in bottle. This still has that panache.

Dark red; still relatively closed to smell, but fresh and ripe; full, elegant, fresh and finely but very firmly tannic; deep and sweet in flavour, long, savoury, complex, with great sweet, spicy length. A lovely richness beneath a rugged structure. Will the fruit outlast the tannin? Splendid if you don’t mind the sinew.

Youthful, juicy blackberry fruit with aniseed and a touch of milk chocolate. Subtle herby notes with something almost spirity on the finish – not hot, exactly, but heady with a liqueur-type syrupy quality to it. Only just entering its optimum phase. (RH)