This opaque purple-colored St.-Emilion is one of the starts of the vintage. The wine exhibits aromas of new saddle leather, damp earth, blackberries, incense, cassis, and toast. An intriguing tapenade note emerges with airing. It is full-bodied, with sweet tannin, low acidity, and impressive concentration. It can be enjoyed now and over the next 12-13 years.

The 1999 Clos de l’Oratoire was picked at 29hl/ha and matured in 70% new oak for 18 months. It has an attractive mulberry, bay leaf, incense and orange peel bouquet that is fresh and vital after 20 years. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite sturdy tannin. This is fresh but shows a surprisingly firm backbone. A touch of Chinese five-spice lingers on the finish. This has held up well and should give several more years of drinking pleasure. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the estate.

Medium ruby-red. Extroverted, distinctly sauvage nose of roasted meat and leather. Fat and soft in the mouth, with plenty of inner-mouth flavor interest. Seems longer today than the same owner's Aiguilhe, and the tannins are finer and sweeter.