If you’re seeking purity, elegance and refinement in a fully, mature Bordeaux, look no further. Automatically, you find cherries, flowers, potpourri, truffle and a background note of chocolate. The palate is incredibly pure. Texturally, the wine is focused on its seamless, silky presence with layers of sweet red fruits that linger seamlessly. No decanting needed. This is mature La Conseillante at its best. Drink from 2023-2030. Tasted Oct 2023

The 1990 La Conseillante is fully mature, and totally brilliant. Its medium ruby color is followed by a perfumed, complex bouquet of sandalwood, cedar, ripe cherries, licorice and Asian spices. Upfront and not holding anything back, it reveals loads of sweet fruit and is incredibly complex and nuanced aromatically. This gives way to a full-bodied, integrated and seamless Pomerol that has resolved tannin, perfect balance, an opulent mouthfeel, and a great finish. This is Pomerol in all its elegant, yet seductive glory and while I don’t see any upside, it’s going to continue drinking beautifully for another decade.

This deep ruby/garnet-hued 1990 reveals considerable amber at the edge as well as a knock-out bouquet of cedar, kirsch, licorice, roasted herbs, and spice box. An exuberant, atypically flamboyant effort, it possesses supple texture, medium to full body, sweet fruit, plenty of glycerin, and attractive melted tannin. This wine has been delicious since birth, but additional nuances continue to develop in the bottle. Drink it over the next decade.

Wonderful expression on the nose, with black fruit, cocoa powder and a slight hint of reduction which then dissipated. Good colour in the glass, suggesting the wine’s age. However the palate made no such concession, with ripe black fruit compote, leather, savoury tobacco and pencil lead. Excellent volume here with round, generous tannins and a succulent, fleshy profile. Superb concentration of fruit which has a distinctly gourmand feel. Incredible poise, personality and presence. Magnificent length, suggesting this is now in its prime.

Good deep color. Enticing black fruit and gamey aroma. Very sweet but manages some restraint; stylish raspberry fruit calls to mind a Côte de Nuits Burgundy. Decent acidity gives this lovely focus and shape. Subtle, very long finish, with ripe tannins buried in fruit.

The 1990 La Conseillante is a vintage that I have tasted several times. The most recent bottle was opened at a private dinner in Bordeaux and mirrored previous showings. It has a precocious, slightly blurred bouquet with kirsch and wilted violets scents noted on previous bottles. The palate is full-bodied for a Pomerol, sensual with an underlying wild mint note that surfaces with time. Traits of black truffle continue to come through on the plush and sensual finish although it is becoming a little loose-knit with bottle age, especially compared to the regal 1989. It will not improve further unless you are lucky enough to own large formats. Tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux.