Tight, with lots of nectarine skin, apricot and dried pineapple notes and a good spice hint on the finish. A bit more backward than the pack. —J.M.

The 2012 has a lifted bouquet of quince, marmalade and yellow flowers that is precise and focused. The palate is viscous and convincing on the opening, offering good depth and cohesion with satisfactory botrytis, though it tails away ever so slightly on the finish. Still, this is a commendable effort and is another fine 2012 Barsac. Nobody promotes their estate more than the dynamic Aline Baly, and good for her – Coutet has been on a roll recently.

Mid gold. More delicate on the nose than many. Light notes of apricot and honey, even a touch floral. Quite savoury on the palate, perhaps from the oak. Sweet and fresh and a careful 'dryness' on the finish that adds finesse. It's obviously not dry but there's a textural dryness that works well with the sugar sweetness. Very moreish and long. Drink 2022-2035 (JH)