If you want to impress a friend with a pure, hedonistic St.-Emilion that also offers an intellectual challenge, the 2012 Croix de Labrie, a St.-Emilion fruit bomb, is the wine for you. Unfortunately, the 250-case production means this cuvee is limited in availability. Aromas of incense, Christmas fruitcake, Asian plum sauce, blackberries, licorice and truffles soar from the glass of this dense plum/purple-colored wine. Opulent, voluptuously textured and medium to full-bodied with no hard edges to be found, it will drink well for a decade after bottling.

Bright medium ruby. Expressive aromas of blackberry, red cherry and iron, lifted by a violet nuance. Juicy and brisk, with bright acidity framing the blackcurrant, mint, spice and fresh herb flavors. This refined midweight finishes precise and persistent. A very good showing in 2012, and a wine that will offer early drinking pleasure.

A balanced red with berry and hints of chocolate. Medium body, with pleasant tannins and a medium finish.